Making the Mast

Making the Mast, Spars, Rudder and Daggerboard

Before I could shave the mast I needed to make a bodger's horse. It has been a long time since I made one of these things. Very handy.

I headed out into the woods to look for a recently dead tree the right size and straight as an arrow. I did not want to take out a live tree if I could have avoided it. No luck. I found one the right size but it was decidedly not straight. I thought I could straighten in out when I carved it but it turns out there is very little room for this. Lesson: find a straight tree. So the mast will have a few minor curves in it. No worries --  it will definitely look hand carved.

Acorn Images

Building Iain Oughtred's Acorn Tender

The Overview

Sadly I cannot find any images of the beginning of the build. The initial construction of the setup and molds was easy enough. I really enjoyed lining out the strakes with small battons as that was the first time I could visualize the final hull appearance. After placing the keelson even the dreaded garboard strakes went on without issue. However, from that point on creating a template for each pair of strakes was a challenge. I tried spiling, and using a thin sheet of luan bent over the battons in an attempt to figure out the exact shape of the next strake. The simple luan technique worked well until I got to the strakes that were longer than the plywood and I certainly wasn't going to scarf every template. Eventually what worked the best was laying a stiff plastic sheet, about 6mil, over the hull and tracing the edges of the lining battons. A couple of stakes were a smidgen off, but not bad and happily are not very noticeable in the final product.

Outer stem attached, keel blanks positioned.

This part of the build is where things were fun and fast. Finally I could see the end of the hull. I laminated the outer stem at the same time I laminated the inner stem so it was ready to go. Having that piece hanging around for 6 months was demoralizing. Attaching the gunwales and keel was simple and seamless.

Attaching the outer keel, clamping from the cieling.

Using a spanish windlass to bend the aft end of the outer keel.

Outer keel in place, shaping begins, starting outer gunwales.

Attaching inner gunwales, seat risers in place.

Placing the seat risers stalled me for awhile, trying to figure out something resembling level when the boat is sitting the water. Eventually I decided it really didn't matter as long as it was symmetrical and at the appropriate height where the daggerboard case was to be installed -- this would act as a center support for the seat.

Second strip of the starboard inner gunwale is glued.

Gunwales complete, breasthook attached, daggerboard case gluing up and seats fitted.

Prepping the hull for paint

Setting up the hardware

Hull, sole and under the sole painted, seats dry fitted.

First coats of varnish.

Closeup of stem and breasthook.

Figuring out how to make the sole supports level was another tricky moment. As always, after fussing with it until I got too frustrated I simply chose to go for it, time was running out. It came out fine.

All wooden parts attached, multiple coats of varnish.

Hardware added, sole in place, all done ... for now.

The finish work was rushed and incomplete as we were heading to the northern neck of Virginia in a week. I will eventually get back to it and add another 6 coats of varnish.

Towing behind Elizabeth.

Rowing to Kilmarnock.

The first successful trip, resting at Kilmarnock.

Next Up: the mast, daggerboard and rudder. I already made the sail.

Start the Engine and Look for Leaks

Final test:

With all the parts back in their respective locations, all fluids filled and a temporary wooden plug shoved into the oil fill hole, I was ready to start the engine and see what I screwed up. I was seriously expecting some obnoxious clanking sound indicating some bit or another was left lying about inside the case. I was wrong. The engine started normally, sounded as it always had and best of all the oil pressure was back! I was now getting about 70 psi at half to three-quarters throttle and about 45 at idle. Problem solved. I only wish I knew what I did.

All done. Looks no different.

Okay, I think I really do know and it is rather embarrassing to admit that I probably did not need to replace the oil pump or any of the rubber or gaskets inside the case. When I had the case off I pulled a couple of bolts off because it was not obvious what they did or what lay behind them. One of the bolts looked suspiciously like the bolts that sealed the two pressure release valves on the oil filter assembly. These pressure relief valves are very simple -- just a spring with a ball bearing in a channel. The spring holds the ball against a seal and when the pressure is too high the spring compresses, the ball moves and the oil pressure is released back into the crankcase. Looking at the exploded parts diagram it appeared that this was another of those relief valves but did not have the spring or ball inside. This valve was not mentioned in the service manual so I only knew of it from the parts diagram. I wasn't sure if this was one of the modifications to the engine that Universal had made or whether the spring and ball should really be there and just were missing. I ordered the parts anyway and this, their absence, was, I suspect, the reason for the low oil pressure. Of course, that means that I had been running the engine for four years with low oil pressure. I have no idea why those bits were missing. Sigh. So now I have a new oil pump, new rubber and gaskets inside the timing case and oil pressure. Hopefully I will not have to repeat this for another decade or two.

Reassembly

Reassembly

Putting it all back together is just the opposite of taking it apart. Hopefully you kept track of all the bolts and other bits. The first step is to clean the two faces where the gasket will be -- on the case and on the block. I used a plastic scrub pad and 400 grit sandpaper for this job. The case gasket is large and complicated and you might want to use a spray adhesive to attach it just to make sure it doesn't move on you. In my case it worked fine without.

Next is reassembling the bits in the case and on the block. The exploded parts diagram referenced in the previous "parts" post is very useful here. These include:

• The three small o-rings on the case that seal the channels around the oil filter. These I replaced.
• Replace the large o-ring around the coolant pipe that sticks out on the top of the block.
• Reassemble the crankshaft -- large washer, o-ring, and collar.
• Make sure the part that connects the raw water pump is aligned with the slot in the timing gear.

Now all that remains is to line up the case and as you put it in place gently slip the crankshaft oil seal over the crankshaft. Push the case toward the block as far as it will go. In my case, the raw water pump attachment was not perfectly aligned with the timing gear so I put a pair of vice grips on the splined end of the crankshaft and slowly turned the shaft while pressing on the case until the case was flush with the block and gasket. Before starting all this I laid out the four corner case bolts and had a small cup of oil ready. The case bolts should go in "wet", that is dipped in oil, to prevent leakage from the back of the bolts. I inserted the four corner bolts to hold the case it place, then put in the rest of the bolts. Again I do not know what the torque specs on these bolts are so I tightened them as much as I dared. The case is now bolted in place.

Then we reassemble the rest of the bits:

• The hoses to the raw water pump. 
• The short hose that connects the internal coolant pump to the block.
• The coolant hose on the lower right side of the case.
• The gasket for the speed control assembly.
• The two springs inside the speed control assembly. These were easy to attach with the case in place. The small spring attaches to the right hand lever that is coming out of the block and to a stud on the inside of the case. The large spring attaches to the left hand lever and to the triangular lever on the speed control plate.
• Bolt down the spring control plate.
• Attach the throttle linkage to the spring control plate.
• Replace the windsor key in the crankshaft if you have not done that yet.
• Attach the crankshaft pulley, large washer and nut. Tighten the nut which will push the pulley on to the shaft.
• Put the alternator back and reattach the wires
• Place and tighten the alternator belt.
• Attach the air breather assembly.

The last step is to refill all the fluids -- oil and coolant. Oh, and don't knock the oil filler plug into the only utterly inaccessible spot in the engine compartment. This will provoke cursing and self-loathing. Trust me. When adding coolant remove the plug from the thermostat housing and fill that area with coolant as well as the main reservoir. Learned that the hard way too.

Removing the front gear case

The Gear Case

Removing the gear case is as simple as removing the 11 bolts around the edges. Each bolt is a different length so I made a map and labeled them as I took them out. It will make putting the right bolt back in the right place easy.

The case came off without a hitch, though some of the bolts were very tight and corroded. Thankfully none broke in the process. It would probably have been a good idea to hit those bolts that can be located on the block with PB Blaster or some other penetrating oil. I lucked out.

There is a windsor key on the crankshaft that keys the balancing pulley. I should have removed this before removing the case as the crankshaft oil seal had to pass over it. Thankfully I did not damage the seal, but I might have. Better safe than sorry. Next time.

Once the case was off, the timing gears and the oil pump were exposed. In the picture to the right the upper right hand gear is the camshaft gear. The upper left is the timing gear connected to the timing pump. The middle gear connects the crankshaft gear below to both the camshaft and the timing gear. The oil pump gear is the small gear below the crankshaft.

In order to remove the oil pump gear one must first remove the windsor key, collar and oil deflecting washer that are on the crankshaft. The windsor key is the only potentially difficult part. I tried prying it off, banging on it, vice grips, heat -- to no avail. Joe, one of my boat neighbors and retired metalworker was nearby and said that an "old timer" told him to just tap it gently a couple of hundred times with a ball peen hammer and it will eventually loosen. Then it can be removed with pliers. Joe offered to give it a try and had the key out in about five minutes. Yes, I felt rather stupid but was pleased to learn this trick. I have a plastic headed hammer that I use to bang on metal, especially aluminum, so I don't damage it. If you are using a ball peen be careful not to damage the key too much or you will wind up replacing it. Once the key is removed the collar, o-ring and large washer come off easily. Now you are ready to pull the oil pump gear.

There is a nut on the oil pump shaft and a soft, bent lock washer that must be removed before the gear will come off. A small gear puller makes removing the gear easy. It is just on a tapered shaft. As with the crankshaft pulley start gently until you feel the gear start to come off. Once this gear is removed the oil pump will unbolt with four bolts in the the corners. The original pump had 3 bolts that attached the two parts of the pump housing together. The replacement pump had only one. In any case, there is a small, shallow cylindrical extrusion on the back center of the pump that positions the pump in the block. This is a very tight fit and required a bit of tapping around the edges to spin the pump loose from the gasket. Once the pump is removed all that is left is to scrape off the gasket and clean the block, add the new gasket, making sure the holes all line up and bolt on the new pump. I have no idea what the torque specs are on these bolts so I tightened them as much as I dared. Aluminium threads strip easy.

You may recall that I thought the cause of my low oil pressure was the camshaft plug coming out of the end of the shaft. As you can see on the image to the left, the plug is still in place. This was worrying. Additionally I could see no visible wear on the old oil pump so perhaps all this was in vein.

There is a plug on the other end of the camshaft and I spent some time asking around to see if anyone had removed their camshaft and how it was attached at the other end. It looked like a big job, with the header and rocker arms having to come off so all the valves could be raised to create enough clearance for the shaft to come out.

Having just spent about 4K on the boat over the summer I really did not want to undertake the expense of paying a mechanic to remove the shaft. If I had the engine out and sitting on the bench it would have been a piece of cake and I would not have hesitated to give it a try. So I dithered and dwelled on the problem for a couple of weeks. In the end I decided that I had spent enough money on the boat this year and would just reassemble the case and deal with it in the spring. This was frustrating. Oddly, I would have been happier if the damn camshaft plug was missing!

Replacing the oil pump 3 -- First Steps and Overview -- Universal 5424 M30

Starting the job -- Overview:

(photos to come ...)

First ...

• Make sure all seacocks are closed!
• Put oil and coolant absorbing materials under the engine. Prepare for spills!

Then ...

• Drain both the coolant and oil from the engine. Remove oil filter.
• Disconnect batteries
• Remove alternator and belt
• Remove Air breather/filter
• Remove coolant hose from lower right side of front case
• Remove small coolant hose from internal water pump
• Remove hose from raw water pump to heat exchanger
• Remove hose from seacock to raw water pump
• Remove crankshaft pulley
• Remove throttle linkage from speed control
• Unbolt speed control panel on top of case and access cover on left side of injection pump
• Remove two springs from speed control group
• Remove speed control group

NOTE: The internal water pump and the raw water pump can be left on the front cover. The only part, other than bolts and the hoses mentioned above, that connect the front cover to the engine block are the two springs on the speed control plate.

Details

1. I assume you know how to drain the engine oil and coolant and remove the oil filter.
2. The batteries should be disconnected so you don't short out the alternator or regulator when disconnecting the alternator leads. Otherwise removing the alternator and belt is straightforward. As always tape and label the leads if you think you will not remember where they attach to the alternator.

   

   Alternator, bolts and belt

   
   
   
   

   

   Air breather/filter assembly

3. Removing the air filter/breather is as simple as disconnecting the hose to the air intake on the engine block.
4. Removing the coolant hose from the water pipe on the right side of the engine is largely uneventful. If you have a water heater connected to your coolant system this hose may spill coolant so be prepared to catch any spills.
5. The short hose that connects the engine block to the internal water pump may leak a bit as well.
6. Both hoses connected to the raw water pump will leak sea water. No worries.
7. Ah, the crankshaft pulley ... this can be a bear. The nut holding the crankshaft pulley is huge -- 46mm. Kubota makes a special deep well socket for the nut if you want to spring for it. Otherwise you may have to fabricate your own. In my case the nut came off easily by tapping a corner of the nut with an old screwdriver and hammer. 





Crankshaft pulley, nut and washer

1. Behind the nut is a washer. Remove it as well.
2. You will need a gear puller to remove the pulley as it is on a tapered shaft. Do this gently especially if the pulley has not been removed in the past 30 years or so.
3. Once the pulley is off you should see the black oil seal around the exposed end of the crankshaft. This seal is inserted in the front gear cover and will come out with and when the cover is removed.
8. The speed control panel is attached with four nuts/bolts on the top of the front gear case. It has a spring loaded lever on top. The linkage is connected with a small nut attached this lever.
9. The front left and rear right nuts on the speed control panel are attached to studs that are inserted in the front gear case. The remaining two are bolts that will come out of the case. The access panel is located on the top left side of the engine. It should have a warning label attached to it.
10. Do NOT force the speed control panel when removing it. There are two small springs, one attached to the lever on the speed control panel and a smaller one attached to an internal stud on the front gear case. At this point you only need to remove the larger spring attached to the lever on top of the speed control panel. I found this easiest to do by by gently lifting the panel off the studs and using a pair of angled pliers to get  at the point where the spring attaches to the lever. I left the spring attached to the linkage in the engine block. Do not stretch or otherwise damage this spring or you will have to replace it. 



Speed control panel, bolts, nuts to studs, gasket and small spring.

11. Once the spring has been removed the speed control panel and gasket can be removed. Look in the hole you just created in the top of the front gear cover and you should see the smaller spring on the right side. It is easy to get to now.
12. Now that you have removed all these bits, you are ready to remove the front gear case.

All bits removed and front case is ready to be unbolted.

Parts List -- Universal 5424 M30

First things first -- The parts:

If you haven't heard, the Universal 5424/M30 is a marinized version of the Kubota D-1101 engine block used in Kubota's L245 tractor. It is much cheaper to get engine parts from your local Kubota dealer than from Univeral/Westerbeke. Of course, the parts that are specific to a boat and not a tractor must be acquired from Westerbeke. If you go to a Kubota tractor dealer for parts you will have to reference the L245 tractor as they probably will not know the engine apart from the tractor that uses it.



I found a comprehensive list of Kubota part numbers for this engine. You can find it here.

As you can see there is a significant savings if parts are bought from Kubota directly. With this job I saved $ 250: $145 from Kubota and $395 from Westerbeke. This, for the same parts!

Replacing the oil pump -- Universal 5424 M30

Low Oil Pressure

The story begins when I finally got around to replacing the oil pressure switch. When I purchased Elizabeth the oil pressure idiot light did not work and it took me almost four years to get around to replacing it. Stupid, I know. When I replaced the switch and started the engine the light came on and would not go off. Stupid, I know. Still, the engine has always ran fine, sounds good, does not overheat. Oil obviously circulates as it gets dirty and the oil filter fills. I was not sure if the new oil pressure switch was bad or if indeed the pressure was low. I purchased an oil pressure testing gauge as well as a mechanical gauge to replace the idiot light so I would always know exactly what the oil pressure was. Testing the pressure at the switch port I discovered the pressure at idle was about 5psi and at half throttle around 15psi. The specs on the oil pressure switch suggest that it will circuit will be broken (the light will go off) between 30psi and 60psi. So theoretically, this should be the normal range of the oil pressure. Mine is way too low. I installed the mechanical gauge and the readings were the same. At this point I was feeling really stupid for waiting so long.

So now what? There are many potential causes for low oil pressure. I first went through the obvious and easy possibilities; wrong oil, low oil level, clogged or faulty oil filter. All were good. The next easy cause is one of the two oil pressure relief valves being stuck in the open position, tricking the engine into thinking the pressure was too high and returning the oil to the sump without sending it to the rest of the engine. I removed and cleaned them and still the problem persisted. The problem still could be as simple as the primary oil filter, just a screen really, being clogged with crud. This filter is located on the pickup tube in the crankcase. To get at it, however, is not so easy as the engine would have to be lifted out of the boat to remove the crankcase. Along the same lines the pickup tube that is immersed in the oil and carries the oil to the oil pump may have become disconnected. This, as well is under the engine in the crankcase. Uh oh, major expense.

So that brings me to where we are today. Before pulling the engine I can replace the oil pump itself and check the forward plug on the camshaft. These are two possible culprits as well and can be accessed from the front of the engine. A big(ish) job to be sure and one I have never undertaken before on this engine. Sigh. So here goes.

Keel and Bottom Work: Before and After

Before and after pics for comparison:

On the way out ...

Headin' back in ...

The Keel:

Before ...

A week of rain meant that I ran out of time before I could finish fairing the keel ... next time.

The Rudder:

Next haul out I will have to invest the energy I put into the keel into the rudder. The starboard side is still wet and will require cutting out the whole side and relaminating it. Alas. 

All told I am glad this job is over ... for now. Hopefully I will get a decade out of the barrier coat!

Keel and Bottom Work Procedures

Keel and Bottom Work Procedures


The Complete Procedures:

• Keel Preparation: Stripping the Keel

• There is no easy way to do this, unless you have access to and permission from the boatyard to use a sandblaster. This would probably require you to tent off the boat.
• Cover the ground and use vacuum hoods on power tools for environmental reasons.
• Chip and scrape as much as possible with an old chisel and stiff scraper, being careful when you are working near the joint and fiberglass stub.
• Using an angle grinder (with dust hood) and sanding disks, sand off as much as possible. This step will take the longest and remove the vast majority of the remaining material.
• Using and angle grinder with a course wire wheel clean up what remains and try to get to bare metal wherever possible. Make sure you remove all rust.
• Immediately before applying the epoxy barrier coat, do a quick but thorough sanding with an orbital sander and course paper (30-40 grit) to take off the inevitable (and unseen) oxidation that begins immediately when iron is exposed to oxygen.
• Dispose of collected material properly -- whatever that means. In my case, I collect it in a 5 gallon bucket and dispose of it when our local county landfill collects hazardous waste.

• Keel: Applying the Barrier Coat

• The steps below must be done quickly as oxidation is occuring while you wait.
• Having removed the flash oxidation with the sander, clean surface of dust with tack rags.
• Wipe the entire surface with acetone to remove oils and water.
• While the acetone is drying, begin to mix your unthickened epoxy. Mix thoroughly!
• Apply epoxy to a small area (2 sq feet or so) with a foam brush or roller, being sure to get into all the pits and crevices.
• Scrub the area with a wire brush to increase the epoxy's contact with the metal. 
• Tip off the wire brush marks with vertical, then horizontal brush strokes.
• Repeat the last three steps until the entire keel is coated.
• Subsequent coats may be applied right away, as long as the epoxy hasn't cured completely. Otherwise before applying the next coat you will need to scrub off the amine blush with a green scotch pad and dry if off, being sure to collect all the waxy blush residue.
• As you go through this process and the epoxy begins to cure be sure to keep an eye out for drips and sags. Unthickened epoxy, especially on a hot day, is VERY runny.
• After two or three coats, begin to fair the pits and crevices with epoxy thickened with your favorite fairing compound. (I use west systems 407 as it sands easily but still has some structural strength to it). Let fairing coat dry.
• Sand your fairing coat smooth and clean the surface with tack cloths and acetone as before. Recoat with unthickened epoxy. Note: if there are really deep pits you may have to do this a couple of times to fill the holes.
• You will need a total of 5-6 coats of epoxy to thoroughly protect the iron from oxidation and galvonically isolate the iron from the copper in the bottom paint. Remember to wash the amine blush off the surface before painting.

• Sealing the Keel to Hull Joint

• Scrape out as much of the old sealant as you can reach with your favorite pointy tool.
• Clean the area in and around the joint thoroughly -- no dirt, no oil, no rust.
• Douse the joint in acetone to remove moisture that may linger deep within.
• Tape off both sides of the joint to ensure a neat edge. (This allows you to be really sloppy with applying and smoothing the new sealant.)
• Using 3M 5200 and a caulking gun, apply a thick bead of sealant along the joint. Be sure to squeeze as much sealant into the joint as you can.
• Smooth off the sealant while it is still wet and sticky (wear latex gloves!)
• Remove masking tape and allow sealant to dry (up to 7 days)

• Fairing the keel to hull joint.

• Take this advice/procedure with a grain of salt. As iron is obviously not flexible and fiberglass is, I suspect there is some flexing in the joint. Fairing over the joint with thickened epoxy thus has two problems; if the hull flexes at the joint the epoxy will crack, and I am not sure how well epoxy will adhere to the 3M 5200.
• If you fair the areas above and below the joint only, you would be able to monitor to state of the joint at every haul out. If you cover it, who knows. The down side is it will not look or perform as well as covering the entire joint.
• My (unproven) solution to this dilemma was to use West Systems GFlex epoxy, thickened with fairing compound to cover the joint and blend the keel seamlessly into the hull.
• The procedure is identical to the fairing process above.

DON"T FORGET THE BOTTOM OF THE KEEL! 

(Although there is not much you can do about the area where the keel is resting on the blocks -- unless you want to pay the yard to hoist the boat on the lift while you work on those areas. That can get really pricey as the yard will charge by the hour for the use of the lift.)

I won't go into detail about how to paint the bottom as this is covered extensively elsewhere online.

Keel, Rudder and Bottom Work

Before any work

The culprrt: poor maintenance of the forward
part of the joint allowed water to penetrate along the length of the joint.

(All images @ https://picasaweb.google.com/113905172205315068165/ElizabethKeelAndBottomWork)

The big job at hand is to strip the keel back to bare metal, apply an epoxy barrier coat, reseal the keel/hull joint and fair and paint the whole mess (including the entire bottom). The rust visible on photos above is nothing to worry about, just surface rust. It does, however, indicate that the old barrier coat has failed. I received a quote from Oak Harbor Marina to strip, barrier coat and paint the keel --  a mere $2400. So I will, obviously do the work myself. Alas.

Armed with hammer, chisel, scraper, random orbital sander, angle grinder, shop vac, dremel, safety glasses, hearing protection, and respirator I set to the job of stripping the keel of all the old material. This is a seriously SLOW and laborious task. It would go a lot faster with a sandblaster, but the yard won't allow it.

The First Weekend

After most of a day's work I managed to expose the keel/hull joint and chip away at some of the old barrier coat. The joint was faired with a material that looked a lot like Bondo. It adhered tenaciously to both sides of the joint, but not over the area of the joint itself. Ranging from 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch thick it took  a couple of hours of careful chiseling to expose the joint.

The surveyor was right, the polyurethane sealant in the joint remained intact, except at the forward end. My worries about moisture getting to the keel bolts was unfounded. I used the hook scraper to dig out as much of the old sealant as I could reach, leaving just some detail sanding necessary before applying a new bead of 3M 5200. I will prep the joint on both sides of the keel before sealing the joint.

After a couple of days of VERY slow going with lousy sandpaper and  lots of hammering and scraping, I decided to purchase a dust hood for my angle grinder. With the grinder I can use a wire brush. I am hoping this will go faster.

The Rudder: Day 1

I also began the repairs on the rudder. The starboard side of the rudder had a couple of wet spots with one serious area of delamination. I did a quick sand job just to expose the high points, then drilled a bunch of holes in the bottom of the rudder and a couple on the top to allow the water to drain. Water flowed as if the faucet was left on! I let it run for a day and on day 2 started to cut out the areas of delamination. I was surprised to find no fiberglass cloth or matting -- just thickened epoxy. Below the skin is a very dense foam material. I hope when I relaminate the cut out areas the epoxy will adhere to this stuff!






After 4 days ... damn this is slow going. Found the fastest method was to remove as much as possible with a hammer, chisel and stiff scraper. This will get off most of the old barrier coat without creating too much dust. Then the angle grinder with a sander attachment will do the most of the rest. Finally finish off with a wire brush. The orbital sander is worthless.

September 17 2011

After a week finally a coat of epoxy is on the port side of the keel and progress is being made on the starboard side.

September 24 2011

Two weeks later and both sides have at least one coat of epoxy and the keel/hull joint is sealed with 3M 5200.

Before any work on the starboard side

Starboard side -- joint sealed and fairing begun

Taped the joint for a neat joint line

October 5 2011

Almost a month later and the keel, hull and rudder are as done as they are going to get. At some point you have to give up on perfection and recognize you are out of time. And boy did I give up on perfection! The keel has been stripped, the joint refreshed and the area has been (somewhat) faired. More time and I would have made a perfect fairing job of it. Alas.

After one coat of bottom paint ...

And The final product ... after two coats of bottom paint.